Travel Taleswith Mike Siegel

Buenos Aires, Argentina

by Mike Siegel

The most European city in South America is well-worth a visit. Time to Tango!

Mike’s Snapshot Review

  • WHEN: August, 2008

  • DURATION: 8 days

  • STAYED: rented a 1-bedroom apt. in the Recoleta neighborhood (approx. $50/night)

POSITIVES

  • Cost -A “European” city at South American prices. Third World, this is not. Food, transportation, and accommodations are relatively cheap compared to US prices.

  • Culture– Famous for its artists, athletes, “Evita” Peron, and of course, The Tango. Good Museums, galleries, public artwork, and the highest concentration of theaters in the world.

  • Sports– While sports such as basketball have gained ground in recent years, Argentineans live and breathe soccer. I caught a game at one of the City’s biggest clubs, Boca Juniors, but be on your toes: games can sometimes be rough. I was with a local and that helped.

  • History– Argentina has rich and varied history, not all of it pleasant. It’s survived economic collapses and brutal military regimes, but they have come out smiling (or dancing). The history may not all be pretty, but it is very interesting.

  • Nightlife– This city likes to party, and many of the clubs don’t get going until the early morning hours. Adjust your body clock accordingly.

  • Friendliness– I found the people to warm and engaging, unless you’re Brazilian and want to talk soccer. Then it’s on, brother.

  • Wine– Argentina and neighboring Chile produce excellent wines and they’re dirt cheap compared to what we’d pay for the same bottle back home.

  • Ice cream– Argentina received a huge influx of Italian immigrants a century go, and they brought with them their gelato skills. Eat it, and eat it often.

  • **Steak **– if you like red meat, you’ll be in Heaven. Argentinians eat more steak per capita than anywhere in the world. It’s organic, grass-fed, and everywhere (and sometimes too omnipresent- see below).

NEGATIVES

  • **Food- **Nearly every local restaurant I frequented had the same staples on every menu: Steak, pizza, and empanadas. Not that I dislike any of those things, but after a week I was begging for some variety. Out of desperation I went to a sushi joint – bad call. Tough place for vegetarians.

  • T****ransportation- B.A. does have a subway, but it only serves a limited area. Bus systems can be confusing and crowded. Luckily taxis are not too expensive.** **

  • **Language- **Think you know Spanish? I thought I knew enough to get by, but the Argentinian accent is a tricky one. Certain letters are pronounced differently, the slang is like nothing I’ve heard, and I was clueless. I can usually get by alright in most Spanish-speaking countries, but I had the most difficulty in Buenos Aires. Compare it to speaking American English and visiting, say, Scotland. It’s the same language, but kind of isn’t.

  • **Crime- Neighborhoods can go from nice, to sketchy, to downright dangerous in just a matter of blocks. It’s a big city, and poverty and crime are part of the deal. Be careful and take legal taxis at night. **

  • **Weather – **Though snow is rare, it can get pretty cold in the winter, especially at night. I was there during August (their winter) and while the days were pleasant enough walking weather in the 50’s and 60’s, I froze my ass off at a night soccer game. Check temps before you pack.

  • **Distance- **While prices are low once you arrive, getting there is the rub. It’s about 9 hours from Miami, so utilize frequent flier miles if possible or be on the lookout for fare sales.

MUST DO

  • Get out the comfy shoes and **walk. **Check out the various neighborhoods like Bocas, **Palermo **and Palermo Hollywood.

  • Visit the San Telmo Market on Sunday.

  • Recoleta Cemetery – see where Evita and other elite families are buried in this famous graveyard.

  • **Plaza de Mayo **and the “Pink House” (office of the President).

  • Drink **Yerba Mate **-the national drink of tea leaves and hot water served in a special cup and drunk through metal straw. I didn’t care for it, but you gotta try it.

  • See a football match (Boca Juniors and River Plate are the biggest clubs and bitter rivals).

  • Take a free** Tango lesson** on the street.

  • Eat the steak, drink the wine, and be merry.

RECOMMENDED?

Absolutely!

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